THE RELEVANCE OF PATTERN MAKING IN GARMENT PRODUCTION SPEAKING IN AUCHI TOWN
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BACKGROUND OF THE STUDY
In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled Camp, Carole Ann (2011). Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use Camp, Carole Ann (2011). The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes condensed to the one-word Patternmaking but it can also be written pattern making or pattern cutting.
A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed. The process of changing the size of a finished pattern is called grading Aldrich, Winifred (1985).
Several companies specialize in, usually employing at least one specialized patternmaker. In bespoke clothing, slopers and patterns must be developed for each client, while for commercial production, patterns will be made to fit several standard body sizes.
Pattern manipulation requires practice, skill, and problem solving. The basic block pattern is altered in various ways (and there is always more than one way to achieve a result) but most manipulations include cutting, expanding, reducing, folding etc. the basic block. Each alteration from the original pattern is made based off of the design with the final stage of assembly in mind. For example: if a DESIGN has a gathered waist, the PATTERN will need to be expanded in that area, so once the pattern is traced and the fabric is cut, it will be gathered along this area and SEWN in place. For any design that is dreamed up, there is a way to manipulate a basic block to achieve the look. Sometimes what looks to be a simple design can actually create a very complex series of pattern pieces and vice versa. When I design garments, I always have the pattern manipulation and final construction in the back of my mind Aldrich, Winifred (1985).
There are three methods of preparing patterns:
1. Drafting
2. Draping
3. Bought or commercial pattern
1. Drafting is a two dimensional basic method of preparing a paper pattern. The pattern is prepared on brown paper using personal measured of the wearer. The garment prepared by this method fits exactly to the satisfaction of the wearer. It is economical to draft one’s own pattern. Also changes in style can be made adopting the basic pattern. This type of pattern can be constructed by drafting manually or produced by computer which has been programmed to construct basic patterns according to given measurement and proportions.
2. Draping can be treated as one involving a detailed survey and study of the figure to build up a reliable fitting experience. This was the original method of constructing garment pattern and is still widely used in the clothing design, houses in Paris. Draping is a free approach and is described as a precise technique.
3. Bought or commercial patterns: These patterns provide fashions in current trend designed to fit certain sizes. It is available in tissue paper. There patterns indicate neck sizes for garments such as shirts, chest or bust measurement for pants and skirts even to those with the ability and desire to design their own clothing a commercial patterns makes a good starting point.2
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